Third Topcoat Application

December 28th, 2014

With the Christmas festivities beginning to settle a bit, I made an early morning bee-line to the dinghy for her third topcoat application.  Actually, the evening before, I took to sanding the hull in preparation for this early morning application.  The sanding was by hand and done with 320-grit paper.  I had added another work light to help to better see the hull surfaces. The next three photos are post-sanding.

The morning began with mixing the topcoat paint.  In this instance I began to play a bit more with the reducer ratio, and upped it to roughly 46% by base/converter volume.  After mixing the paint, and awaiting the induction time to pass (15 minutes), I solvent-washed the hull to pick up any remain dust that the vacuumed missed the night before.  Application was with a solvent-capable 4" foam roller.

A few imperfections formed on the hull, but will be addressed through the next sanding round and final topcoat application.  I will be applying the first coat of teak sealer to the new brightwork in the coming days in order to prepare for its installation.

Total Time: 1 Hr.

Second Topcoat Application

December 20, 2014

With a good topcoat applied and cured, I set out today to get the 2nd of 3 or 4 total coats on the dinghy.  The weather was good for painting and so I took advantage of the opportunity to get this second coat onto the hull.  I began with sanding the hull, by hand, with 320-grit paper.  I took care of a few small bubbles that had cured before they had a chance to pop and flow out to an even coat - a tad more of the reducer would solve this issue.  The picture below is the cured first topcoat application.

I worked my way around the dinghy admittedly still struggling with poor lighting conditions.  As a result, the sanding is a bit of a spastic battle trying to see a particular portion of the surface from a few different angles to catch imperfections.  Over the next two coats, I will arrange additional work lights to improve visible imperfections.  The picture below is after sanding with 320-grit paper.

I vacuumed most of the sanding dust, but as usually I solvent-washed the surface to take care of any remaining dust.  I upped the ratio of reducer to the base/converter mixture for this application.  The base volume was 5 ounces, the converter 2.5 ounces - the noted 2:1 ratio for brush and roll application.  To those 7.5 ounces, I then added 3 ounces of reducer, for a 40% by volume ratio.  The paint had noticeable improved layout performance.  After the application, I did catch a couple places that I had appeared to roll out lighter than surrounding areas - blaming the lighting for this.  I plan to apply two more applications of the topcoat.

Total Time: 1.5 Hrs.

(The Real) First Topcoat Application

December 13, 2014

I was eager to get the first application of topcoat sanded and to apply the second coat.  The first application of topcoat was doomed to failure due to the fact that I hadn't used enough reducer, and as a result the paint did not flow out and lay down.  With a new recipe designed to improve the paint's performance, I set out to sand and generally prep the surface for another coat of the Alexseal topcoat. I began with a rather aggressive sanding with 220-grit paper in order to remove the imperfections of the prior paint application.  I set up a second portable work light to improve my ability to spot the areas on the hull requiring further attention.  A slow and methodical walk around the boat revealed a few areas needing additional spot-sanding work.  At the conclusion of the sanding, I vacuumed the majority of the sanding dust and, as is my usual practice, I wiped the hull clean with a solvent to remove any remaining sanding residue. 

In the workshop, I mixed a new batch of the Alexseal Premium Topcoat 501 (Oyster White) with the new reducer ratio of 33%.  The new recipe:  5oz base, 2.5oz converter, and 2.5oz reducer.  After waiting the 15 minute induction time, I then applied the paint with a solvent resistant foam roller.  The paint's flow performance was dramatically improved.  Since I had sanded so aggressively to remove the first topcoat problem areas, I considered this application to the first of 3 coats of finish paint to be applied. As can be seen below, the application shows tremendous results. 

Even with the substantial improvement in paint performance for this round, I think that I may push the reducer ratio to perhaps 38 to 40%...I'm likely walking a fine line here on lay down versus sag performance; however, I won't hesitate in taking off a coat application with sanding to get the results I am looking for and that the owner is looking for.

Total Time: 1.5 Hrs

First Finish Coat

December 7, 2014

Wanting to at least experiment with the Alexseal topcoat paint,  I made a point to get to the first topcoat in less than ideal conditions.  Even with cooler temperatures, the relative humidity was a bit higher than I would of liked; and made working with this paint even more challenging as it was my first experience with it.  Even so, I pushed forward knowing that sandpaper lay waiting for me regardless.  I started by sanding the last coat of primer with 220-grit paper as I had done the previous rounds.  With the sanding complete, I then vacuumed the surfaces and followed with a solvent wipe down to remove any lingering trace of surface contamination.

Prior to wiping the surface down, I did go ahead and mix the topcoat paint.  The ratio for rolling and tipping is 2 parts base, 1 part converter, and between 16.5% and 33% of that volume thinned with reducer.  I began this round at 6oz base, 3oz converter, and ~2oz reducer.  While the paint was in its induction period (15 minutes), I solvent-washed the hull...and switched on the iRadio Reggae station.

I rolled on this first coat, more interested in watching the lay-down characteristics of the paint.  I finished with a bit more than I had needed for this first round.  There were a lot of take-aways from this first round of topcoat.

The most significant take-away from this experimental coat was that I needed a bit more reducer in my recipe.  The paint was not laying out as quickly as I wanted it to, and as a result cured with some imperfections.  I mixed a bit too much paint, as I mentioned above, so this will be addressed.  Also, my lighting needs some improvement, and I will set up a few more work lights for the next round of topcoat.

Total Time: 1 Hr.

Third Coat of Primer

December 4, 2014

Looking to conclude the primer coats by the coming weekend, I came home focused on getting the third coat on.  I stepped into the usual routine of sanding, cleaning, and painting.  I hand sanded the hull with 220-grit paper, taking off the imperfections and generally smoothing the surface and abrading for a good mechanical bond.  After the sanding, I vacuumed most of the sanding dust and then turned my attention to preparing the paint.  While the paint was in its induction period, I solvent-washed the hull's surface to take care of any residual dust.

After the hull was prepped, I rolled on the third coat of primer with a high-density foam roller.  Plans over the coming weekend include getting the first coat of topcoat on the boat.

Total Time: 1 Hr.

Second Coat of Primer

December 2, 2014

Looking to get the second coat on this evening, I quickly outfitted myself with protective gear and began the sanding process.  Using 220-grit, I worked my way down the port hull, across the stern, and then finished with the starboard side.  The sanding was by no means aggressive, but just enough to abrade the surface to prepare for a good mechanical bond of the second coat.  I vacuumed the sanding dust from the hull, and then mixed the base, converter and reducer.  During the 15-minute induction period, I wiped down the hull with solvent to remove any residual dust and debris.

I applied the second coat of primer with a solvent-safe high-density foam roller.  Photo is not of the best quality.

Total Time: 1 Hr.

First Coat of Primer

November 30, 2014

The goal for the day was to get the first coat of primer on, but before I could get started with that I needed to sand and fair the previous day's fill.  In moving the boat under the porch I had spotted a few areas on the hull that I wasn't comfortable leaving to the finish primer; and since I would not be using high-build primer on this project, I thought it best to fill and fair one last time.  I hit the areas requiring attention with a light 80-grit pass by hand, and then proceeded to work the balance of the boat with 80-grit paper on a flex-pad. 

After vacuuming most the sanding dust, I wiped the surfaces with a solvent to remove the balance of the residue from sanding.

After cleaning the surface with solvent, I moved to taping off the two areas that needed protection: the centerboard and the bow eye.

The centerboard;

the bow eye.

The primer and paint being used in this dinghy restoration is Alexseal - high-quality coatings for the marine environment.  The primer being used is the Alexseal 442 finish primer, and will be laid on for a total of three coats.  I will eventually follow with an Alexseal topcoat product....more to come.

I laid on the first coat of primer with a high-density roller with good performance out the primer.  I will move on to the second coat in a couple days. 

Total Time: 2.75 Hrs.

Repositioning for Paint (Final Fill & Fair)

November 29, 2014

With some help, I moved the dinghy onto the covered porch.  I choose to paint the dinghy in the confines of the porch for obvious rain and dew protection, but the screening will also provide protection from errant and/or kamikaze insects.  Placing a good amount of blocking beneath the dinghy, that also spanned the horses, elevated the sheer such that it was not resting on the horses themselves.  

Once the boat was in place and I was able to walk around the boat, I noticed a few places that could use a bit more attention.  Knowing that a great paint job is 90% prep work, I took the additional day for another round of fill work.  I had originally intended to get the first coat of primer on today...but alas, it would have to wait until the next work session.  I used West System epoxy, thickened with microballoons.

Total Time: 0 Hrs.

Fairing the Bottom

November 28, 2014

With the residual effects of the turkey's tryptophan working its way through my system, I found an hour between family festivities and forced myself into motion to water-wash and sand the fill that I had laid down the previous day.  After water-washing the amine blush on the surface of the cured epoxy, I began with a rather light attack with 80-grit pads on the vs random orbital finish sander, progressing and finishing with 220-grit pads.  

While I was at it today, I rough sanded the centerboard, generally preparing it to receive a coat of bottom paint as the last to-do on the painting list.

...baby-butt smooth.

Total Time: 1 Hr.

Bottom Paint Removal & Fairing

November 26th, 2014

Now on Thanksgiving vacation, I took advantage of some free time to continue preparing the boat for topsides paint.  After a brief discussion with the owner, the plans for the painting scheme were slightly modified.  The boat's bottom paint would be totally removed, and the topsides paint application would extend from sheer line to keel, so no bottom paint to control marine growth.  The owner intends to store the dinghy on "the hard" when not in use, otherwise the boat's bottom would be consumed with marine life eager to colonize every square inch of its bottom. 

That blue streak along the bottom of the dinghy is the previous bottom paint application.  My first task for this work session would be to remove the bottom paint, and bring this surface to fair condition, ready for finish coats of paint. 

Removing the old bottom paint began with 40-grit pads on the 5" random orbital sander.  The use of 40-grit pads may seem a bit much for the removal of bottom paint, but in actuality was appropriate due to the fact that the sander used is a finish sander and my touch was feather-light.  The outcome was predictable and satisfactory.  

View from the bow looking aft, after the 40-grit pass.

The starboard bottom, after the 40-grit pass with the 5" random orbital finish sander.  The darker spots on the boat's topsides are the cured epoxy application used to fill gouges too deep for the primer paint to fair. 

Next, I made the switch to an 80-grit pad on the 5" finish sander to take care of the balance of the bottom paint, and to bring the surface closer to its topsides neighbor. 

Making a thorough pass with the machine, I then finished the balance of the surfaces by hand. 

A shot of the starboard aft quarter after the 80-grit pass.

The final sanding pass was a 220-grit pad on the 5" random orbital finish sander.  Just prior to beginning this sanding application, I water washed the previous application of thickened epoxy (micro-balloons).  The water washing is meant to remove the amine blush that forms on the surface of cured epoxy, and requires removal prior to sanding to prevent contamination of the surface.  With a bit of water and a Scotch-Brite pad, I quickly removed this amine blush and was again ready to resume sanding.

The dinghy bottom after sanding the topsides' filled areas and the bottom.

Next, I used as bright a light as I had to reflect gouges on the bottom.  The dinghy's bottom may just of been the object of Sisyphus's affection - the number of gouges and scrapes across suggested "well-used."  Using the light, I carefully made my way down the port bottom and up the starboard bottom, circling areas that required filling.

Just a couple of photos showing how I marked these areas to give further attention to.

It becomes easy to see the extent of the needed repairs across the bottom, these areas required greater attention than the primer coats could provide.  The filler here is West System epoxy thickened with micro-balloons, and is easily sanded to bring the surface to fair.

The keel was looking ragged.

A closing shot, from the stern.  Next step will be to water wash the epoxy fairing application, and then sand.  Primer is just around the proverbial corner.

Total Time: 2 Hrs.

Paint Prep, Round 1

November 22, 2014

With a need to get things wrapped up by mid-December, and to take advantage of the seasonal low-humidity for painting, I resumed work on the sailing dinghy.  Today's focus shifted from the now completed brightwork, to the topsides.  The owner requested not only for new brightwork to be fabricated, but also for the topsides to be repainted.  My first order of business was to flip the boat to provide good access to the topsides and bottom.  I slid the boat off of its cradle, rearranged the horses, and cobbled the boat back into its temporary resting place.

Its was important to raise the boat's sheer line above the workhorse so as to not damage it.  This was accomplished by running two beams from one workhorse to the other, building up blocks on top of the beams and for the boat's seating to rest upon.  Sheer line preserved.

Another photo (below) showing the aft of the sheer, and just a bit of the blocking beneath the boat.

With the dinghy now in position to work on the painting prep, I gave some brief attention to the centerboard before getting starting with the topsides sanding.  The centerboard had been "locked" into position since taking on the project, and to date I've had no chance or interest to investigate its health.  As it turned out, the centerboard was simply stuck in position as a result of leaf decay...and possibly a few acorns.  Nature has a way of asserting herself.

Satisfied that the centerboard was going to pull through and make it, I got to the sanding work.  With my 5" random orbital finish sander and 80 grit pads I made quick work of the small topsides area, working from bow to stern on both port and starboard sides and then finishing on the transom.  I worked a majority of the surfaces with machine and turned to hand sanding on the tight spaces - along the bottom paint line.

As I had done with the 80 grit pads, I now performed the same work with 120 grit pads on the random orbital sander.  The photo below shows the dinghy after both the 80 grit and 120 grit sanding passes.

A shot of her transom.

After sanding, I brushed off as much of the sanding dust as possible and then wiped all surfaces with solvent in order to capture any remaining residues - which there was aplenty.

With all topside surfaces clean (port, starboard, and transom), I used a light to show any small gouges that primer would not fill and cover.  These small gouges would be filled with epoxy thickened with micro-balloons and then sanded fair.

Methodically working my way around the dinghy, I outlined all areas that would need attention. 

I returned to the shop and mixed up a small batch of thickened epoxy, returned to the boat and began to apply to the problem areas with a small spreader tool.

For now, the work had drawn to a close.  Tomorrow I will water wash the amine blush from the surface of the cured epoxy, and sand fair.

Total Time: 2.25 Hours