Finishing the Brightwork

For Monday, September 29th, I set out to put the finishing touches on the brightwork: trimming the aft portions of the rub rails, easing the tops and bottoms of the rails to achieve a round over, and then sanding all surfaces through 220 grit on the finish sander.  Using a coping saw and following the marks I had made while the rub rails were in their dry fit position on the boat, I removed the extra length at the aft ends of both rails.  I them eased the angles by sanding. 

Next, I eased all 90 degree angles with a round over sanded into the rails.  This would ensure a comfortable grip when moving the dinghy or when bracing while sailing / rowing.  Finally, I sanded all remaining surfaces through 220 grit with the VS finish sander...and old fashioned elbow grease.  In addition to the rails, I finish sanded (through 220 grit) the bow thwart, aft port and starboard thwarts, transom accents, and interior transom rail.

Top and bottom, various views of the rails finish sanded through 220 grit.

Below, the aft port and starboard rub rails with extra length trimmed and finished sanded through 220 grit.

Total Time: 3 Hrs.

Finished Brightwork Removal / Begin Paint Prep

Taking advantage of a couple free hours on Tuesday, September 23rd, I carefully removed the brightwork from the sailing dinghy.  Beginning with the port interior rail, I worked my way down the sheer toward the stern and removed the fasteners with the clamps still in place.  I returned to the bow and removed the port rub rail's fasteners next.  I repeated this process for the starboard rails, and then stored the four rails in the wood shop.  To preserve the shape of the steam-bent rails, I placed them in storage in such a way as to reduce spring-back.  

At this time, I also removed the interior transom rail, both aft thwarts and transom accents, and the bow thwart. I will resume shaping of the brightwork in the coming days to prepare for final installation.  The boat is now ready for its topsides to be filled and faired in preparation for primer.  The coatings, both primer and topcoat, will be Alexseal.

Sorry, no pics today!

Total Time: 2 Hrs

Shaping the Brightwork

I took advantage of a couple of hours of available time on Saturday, September 13th, to begin the process of reaching the final shaping and fairing of the newly fabricated brightwork.  Work on this dinghy included installing new brightwork and new paint.  Painting requires significant attention to detail in the preparation stages, but this process is relatively static from boat to boat.  The brightwork, however, required custom fabrication with no original components to be used as templates.  Over the course of the project, I allowed the boat's small but nautically-attractive lines to steep...simmer...smolder in the recesses of my mind - where all the creativity resides ;).  What unfolded is - I believe - a proportionate and striking application of teak brightwork for such a lovely little sailing dinghy.

The bow thwart, interior rails, and rub rails "coming together".

More shaping will be required on the forward ends of the rub rail, following the angle of the bow.

Above, the port rails brought down to match the plane of the boat's sheer line; below, another shot of the port rub rail showing slight round-over.

Looking more and more like a finished product!

Total Time: 1.5 Hrs.

Dry-fitting the Brightwork

Picking up where I had left off during the previous work session, this Saturday, September 6th, I set out to install (dry-fit) the boat's brightwork - custom teak components I fabricated for the sailing dinghy.  I began with securing the bow thwart with #8 1 1/4" silicon bronze wood screws.  I first pre-drilled for the fastener with a countersink bit so that the screw would sit flush with the boat's topside surface.  Eventually, the boat's rub rail will cover the bronze screw heads.  Shown below, the two #8 screws have been seated to secure the starboard side of the bow thwart.  I repeated this exercise to port.

With the aft thwarts already in place, and the bow thwart newly secured, I turned my attention to the installation of the exterior, or outboard, rails (rub rails).  I planned to space the #8 3/4" silicon bronze fasteners every 6 inches, and they would also be countersunk in order to hide their installation by the interior rail.  So with this plan decided upon, I positioned and clamped both rub rails in place.  You will notice that I left the top portion of the rail just proud of the boat's sheer line.  This will be done with the interior rails as well; the "excess" material will then be brought down to match the boat's sheer line.

The installation of the rub rails followed that of the bow thwart: I pre-drilled with a countersink bit, and then secured the #8 3/4" bronze screws every 6 inches along the interior of the boat's sheer line.  This type of installation would produce very few visible fasteners from outside the boat.  The #8 screws were a tad too long for the rub rail once countersunk, so I removed roughly 1/8" from the tip of each screw just prior to installation.

After successfully installing the starboard rail, I repeated the exercise on the port side rail: clamping into position, pre-drilling with a countersink bit, correctly "sizing" the fasteners, and then securing the fastener.

Once the rub rails were in place, I came back to the bow and installed a total of four #6 1 1/4" stainless steel oval head screws with finish, or countersunk,  washers.

With the stainless steel bow fasteners in place on the bow, I installed three #6 1 1/4" stainless steel fasteners with finish washers to secure the aft portion of the starboard rub rail to the aft thwart, and three for the port rub rail.

With the rub rails in their dry-fit stage, secured to the boat, I turned my attention to the interior rails.  Again, I positioned and clamped the rails in place, and then prepared to secure them with fasteners to the boat.  The installation of the interior rail required one less step - countersinking.  I managed to hide the fasteners for the rub rail (exterior rail), but would have no such luxury for the interior rails.  As I had done with the bow and aft portions of the rub rail, I used #6 stainless steel oval head screws for this installation.  I had previously planned for a 1" screw here, but quickly realized I needed more length to sink into and grab the "meat" of the exterior rail. With that realization, I made a quick trip to the marine store to exchange the shorter 1" fasteners for what I needed.

The above and below shots show the dry-fit installation of the interior rail.

The bow showing the intersection of five brightwork components.  It is easy to see that the fit is not finished in appearance, and will require additional fine-tuning and material removal to achieve a harmonious blending of the various pieces.

The final two installations that I made during the day was the two (port and starboard) transom accents, as well as the interior transom rail spanning the port and starboard aft thwarts.  The interior rail was secured using #8 3/4" silicon bronze screws countersunk into the boat's transom.  These bronze screws will be visible in the final assembly, but the fact that they are bronze will lend a great nautical look with their eventual patina.  Some additional shaping of the brightwork prior to removal will be next, and will lead to prepping for paint. 

Total Time: 7.5 Hrs